Welcome: Le Brissant – Magazine Mpls.St.Paul
Hit. I fell in love with this bun from Roll’d Up Bakery.
In the world of bakery innovation, there was first the cronut, the croissant / donut mashup that took the world by storm in 2013. And now it is: Le Brissant. Yes, a brioche and croissant union that has its place in your face.
And perhaps best of all, for those of us messing around on the salty side of baked goods, this one wasn’t designed to withstand injections of custard and sweet nuggets, though that is the case, it was created for a burger.
The bun debuted at the East Side Burger Battle, a neighborhood burger contest a few weeks ago, and it won hands down. “I knew I just needed to knock out a bun for battle and came up with a concept three days before! I’ve made basic brioche buns before but never like the one I suggested”, Nikki Podgorski told me. She and her husband Brian also make salsa and hot sauces under The Salsa Collaborative name, and it is with this team that they created a double burger: beef patties made with a personalized mixture of ribs, sirloin and brisket on an onion jam, topped with American white cheeses and Gouda, plus a boosted habanero burger sauce all on the brissant. It wowed the competition.
Nikki folds the brioche dough in several layers then the braid before gathering it and folding it back into a bun shape for the mold, “It creates a flaky effect that I didn’t intend to happen!”
The result is a sturdy and attractive bun that has the structure to support your double burger, but the airy and buttery interior to gently rock the flavor and play smart tricks with sauces and juicy chunks. I know because I ordered a brissant online, picked it up from their stand at the Linden Hills Farmers Market on Sunday, went to J. Mortens in Edina for this dry-raised ground beef I picked up some Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese from France 44 and I made an elite killer burger on my patio. You need the scooby a bit to get a hearty bite, but it’s a giver. Next time I would cut a small slice in the center and grill it as a cook’s snack, not that I’m already thinking about future egg sandwiches and figuring out how I can put melted cheese in there without cutting it at all.
Nikki wholesales her brissants, co-competitor Mik German has ordered some in the past for a special on her burger-centric menu at 328 Grill, and you can find them soon at Tim & Tom’s Speedy Market in the Como neighborhood. . . Can Kowalski be far behind? Right now you need to order by Thursday on their website if you want to pick up on Sunday at the market so don’t hang around. Note: you can usually also order bao on its site.
Nikki and Brian live in Victoria, drive to their commercial kitchen in South St. Paul, and have generally dabbled in food. “I quit my other job not that long ago,” Brian told me, “because we were so busy and couldn’t keep up with orders.” Their car mileage is ridiculous, but shows hope and commitment. These two are such nice people and their energy is going up (Nikki might kiss you).
Here is another good news, the duo are organizing a Burger Pop-Up Contest October 2 at Chanhassen Brewing from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. First come, first served until they sell out of the only 100 burgers, but it will be that winning burger on the winning brissant that you stand in line for.