Penner: Aboriginal Tourism Booming in Western Canada

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Abandoned along the storm-ravaged coast, blending into the mossy forest, the ancient Haida canoe is a stunning work of art. And when I reach the weathered boat (a local told me exactly how to find it), I slowly run my hand over the decaying gunwale. I imagine the hand-carved hull laden with fish, the ship gliding over the wind-lashed waves, propelled by strong and capable oarsmen, and heading towards a distant village by the sea, marked with towering totems, of fire smoke and happy kids running around.

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Certainly for me, due to my limited knowledge, understanding what life was like for the ancient Haida is a difficult exercise. When it comes to learning more about the Haida – the indigenous people who have lived for centuries on this beautiful group of islands – I have a long way to go. But my recent trip to Haida Gwaii certainly filled in a few gaps.

Earlier in the trip, at Old Masset, the northernmost community in Haida Gwaii, I met famed Haida carver Christian White, who told me many stories about his clan’s struggles and the growing demand for Haida art. in the world. He takes me to his latest projects, a giant red cedar totem that he and his small team are meticulously sculpting for a summer ceremony. They’ve been working on it for two years! He also shows me a giant canoe – about five times the size of the one I visited along the seashore near Tow Hill – which he is digging himself. The scope and difficulty (in my mind) of these projects is mind-boggling.

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Later that week, just across the street from White’s house, I met multi-genre Haida artist Jordan Seward in his beautiful, cedar-scented shop. He gets to the heart of things with a calm, gentle humility that had me, by the end of our 20 minute visit, almost in tears. The joys and sorrows of creating art, the devastating impact COVID-19 has had on one’s family and community, and mental health are just some of the heavy topics we openly discuss with each other.

Unquestionably, on Haida Gwaii – a remote archipelago in the storm-hammered Pacific that is located about 80 kilometers off the northwest coast of mainland British Columbia – Indigenous tourism opportunities are about as rich and enriching as they present themselves. And for five unforgettable days, I visit artists, hear ancient stories, walk to sacred sites and, at times, feel overwhelmed by what I’m learning. The stories of tragedy, loss of culture, habitat destruction and disease (in the 1860s the native population of Haida Gwaii was decimated due to an epidemic of smallpox) certainly fueled my emotion.

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But you don’t have to travel to Haida Gwaii to experience raw and powerful Indigenous culture. Alberta is home to many incredible Indigenous adventures and tourism opportunities. The ITA (Indigenous Tourism Alberta) has over 138 members with varied experiences such as medicine walks, teepee camping, art exhibits, paddle tours and dozens more.

In my opinion, for people who are just beginning their journey to connect and better understand Indigenous culture – or who wish to make their own personal reconciliation – visit one of the many excellent museums and/or cultural centers in Alberta is a great way to start.

Perched on the banks of the Bow River near Cluny (about an hour east of Calgary), Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park is a personal favorite. With stunning architecture, beautiful views, excellent interactive exhibits, storytelling, dance performances, traditional Siksika dishes, crafts, teepees, riverside interpretive trails and much more , it’s a great opportunity to immerse yourself in Blackfoot history and Aboriginal culture.

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A historic gathering place for the Blackfoot (the Bow River in this area is relatively shallow and ideal for crossing), this is where Treaty 7 was signed. When you walk along the river, campsites, through beautiful cottonwoods and flowering meadows, it’s easy to see why this place is so important to the Blackfoot people. And, for the ultimate immersion in Blackfoot culture, you can also book an overnight stay in a tipi. Visit www.blackfootcrossing.ca for more information and for current hours, show times, special events, and more.

Other Aboriginal museums and attractions I’ve enjoyed visiting over the past few years include Métis Crossing (Alberta’s first major Métis cultural interpretive destination), Rocky Mountain House National Historic Site (learn more about the fur trade) and Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump (a UNESCO World Heritage Site located near Fort Macleod).

While visiting museums and historic sites is definitely educational and enjoyable, for me – and a growing number of “experiential” tourists traveling the planet – deepening the culture, building relationships, listening and learning in an intimate and authentic setting is ‘is it. everything on. As I recently discovered, you can definitely do that in Haida Gwaii. And, of course, all over Alberta too.